AcneTreatmentLab.Com Blog

Sabinsa Corporation has devised a new patented antioxidant ingredient - salts of lipoic acid - for functional use in cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals.

A US patent for the preparation of water soluble salts of lipoic acid was recently issued, after the supplier formulated a method to render it both stable and water soluble. This process greatly increases potential applications.

The salts are said to have anti acne properties and slow down collagenase and elastase enzymes. Sabinsa’s patented version has a potentially wider range of applications.

Source: Clarisse Douaud; Decision News Media SAS

The acne-therapeutic effects of Oriental herb extracts were investigated in terms of antichemotactic effect on polymorphonuclear leucocytes, antilipogenic actions, antibacterial activity against Propionibacterium acnes and resistance induction potency in the bacteria. The ethanol extract (0.01%) of Angelica dahurica markedly suppressed neutrophil chemotaxis, comparable to the effect of erythromycin (0.01%), whereas a strong antilipogenic effect was obtained with rhizoma coptidis (Coptis chinensis) extract (0.01%), leading to a higher efficacy than that of retinoic acid (0.01%). Interestingly, only Glycyrrhiza glabra showed a remarkable antibacterial activity against P. acnes, resulting in negligible induction of resistance, in comparison with a marked development of resistance in the bacteria treated with erythromycin. We suggest that an appropriate formulation containing A. dahurica, rhizoma coptidis and G. glabra could be helpful for the prevention and treatment of acne lesions.

Source: C. Nam, S. Kim, Y. Sim, I. Chang; Skin Reserach Institute, Pacific R&D Center, Yongin, Korea

Free sphingoid bases are a recent addition to this family of active lipids, which emerged from studies of breakdown products from ceramides. Phytosphingosine (PS) is a lipid occurring naturally in the stratum corneum, both in its free form and as a part of the major fraction of ceramides. The biotechnological production of PS patented by Degussa yields to PS with the correct configuration present in the skin. So, application of a PS containing formulation leads to its integration into the natural lipid structures of the skin. In acne, different pathogenetic factors contribute to the inflammation process, defect in keratinization, increased sebaceous gland activity and increased colonization of Propionibacterium acnes. The results of in vitro and in vivo studies confirm the previous reports on strong anti-microbial effectiveness of skin-identical PS produced by Degussa in vitro and in vivo. In addition, PS shows excellent clinical results in the context of skin care in acne, based on both anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial activity. These results demonstrate the potential of PS to enhance or complement existing acne therapies acting as an active cosmetic ingredient.

Source: T. Pavicic, U. Wollenweber, M. Farwick, H. C. Korting (2007) International Journal of Cosmetic Science 29 (3), 181–190.